Load Testing A Battery – EricTheCarGuy

Load Testing A Battery – EricTheCarGuy www.ericthecarguy.com Whenever I post a video these days I wonder if I covered everything and if I presented the information correctly. I have that feeling with this video as there is so much I could cover with batteries. Lets just call this one the “quick” version and hopefully it will get you through the process of checking the battery without too much trouble. — Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com ericthecarguy.com Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum www.ericthecarguy.com Visit my Facebook Page: www.facebook.com —Stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not
Video Rating: 4 / 5

21 Responses to Load Testing A Battery – EricTheCarGuy

  • 17SAUCEDO says:

    if you just have a multi meter you can conect it to the battery on volts. then crank the engine and it should drop voltage. if the voltage is lower then 10 you should replace the battery

  • Xavier Thompson says:

    Hello Eric, You mentioned, earlier in the video, luxury vehicles that have a much greater pull on the electrical system because of all the various bells and whistles. Im curious… is there a way to compensate for the additional draw? Is there such a thing as a more power full power source?

  • Shepperd November says:

    Thanx Eric. I bought a tester just like it. Thank G-d for Harbor freight. China must be the most fun place on earth. They make everything there. The trouble with using Chinese tools is, an hour later you want use them again!

  • kizikMC says:

    uh, thanks dude

  • Guy Wood says:

    That’s virtually the same as the one I bought here in the UK (sold by Clarke Power) except mine’s chromed, not black. Cost me £24 and works a treat.

  • Guy Wood says:

    Just tested mine with virtually the same machine. 12.7v dropping to well above 11v. Yay, go me!

  • Guy Wood says:

    Eric’s spot on. A battery can meter apparently perfectly but then collapse when you try and crank the engine with it. hence the load test…

  • old64goat says:

    Great info, I have an old battery load tester and it works great, it has never failed me.
    I think a REAL load tester like you have is the best.
    I mentioned these type of testers on another car guy channel (will not mention his name) he just about laughed at me, he said these can ruin an old battery, he uses an $800 tester.
    I feel that no way can that tester put a “starter” load on a battery.
    Keep up the great work Eric.

  • Joe Smartballs says:

    My battery reads 12.45 and it won’t crank today. Yesterday I charged it, and it cranked fine but charged to 13.5. So this morning I crank it 4 times in 10 min and it getts weaker after every start till dead, but reads 12.45. Do you think it is most likely a cell?

  • kizikMC says:


  • NETWizzJbirk says:

    I think Valuecraft are cheap batteries from Autozone; they have like a 1 year warranty and are about $89% as expensive as a Duracraft with 2 year warranty (more CCA and Reserve, too).

  • 25maguirre says:

    Hi Eric. Batteries drain naturally over time. What is a reasonable voltage drain over one night? I have changed my truck battery twice this year, and the battery I have now drains about 0.2V overnight outside the truck. I am thinking I keep buying bad batteries.

  • moses680 says:

    eric i got a 5000 watt amp and need to know how many batteries i will need to get full potntiol i got 2 altrnators so i am running around 250 amps im going to spl compition

  • sean seanauto says:

    Eric my cars turn signal don’t work, i changed the lamps but still don’t work, what could be some possible reasons? THX in advance

  • playstation2bigs says:

    eric our country don’t sell battery load tester,

  • countryboy63h says:

    if your vehicle is stock as in no major performace up grades, or large stereo equip. then a optima period would be a waste of money.

  • countryboy63h says:

    and if the charge is over the rec. 12.8 by much then you have an issue with over charging. and simply extending the test period won’t prevent the alternator and/or gen. from over charging it again. if your going to say it make sure carries at least some meaning

  • countryboy63h says:

    wow guy .6 volts makes not a bit of difference. bottom line if the battery starts the vehicle properly then its doing its job. any mech will tell they’re not going to discriminate over .6 volts.

  • radiotech181 says:

    Great Video!! Thanks for doing this video!

  • Jerkwad152 says:

    6-volt systems are nothing to scoff at. I knew of a fellow with a ’54 Ford. He was messing with a tail light, and shorted something. It melted the screwdriver in his hand like butter.

  • mrkyle427 says:

    A fully charged battery reads between 12.6 & 12.8 volts. Any higher than 12.8 volts means the electrolytes are excited in the battery and is known as a service charge at which a small load should be applied to the battery for 15 seconds, not 10. A proper battery load test should meet a minimum of half of the CCA rating and volts should not drop below 9.6 volts while doing this, not just 9. If your gonna do something do it once, do it right.

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