How To Solve An Engine Overheat Condition – EricTheCarGuy

How To Solve An Engine Overheat Condition – EricTheCarGuy I actually had fun putting this one together for you since the car I was working on didn’t cooperate it made it so I could show you real world problems as they happened, very cool. I think this one is pretty self explanatory so I will save a long explanation. In case you missed the link to the “Bleeding a Cooling System” here is a link for you — Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum Visit my Facebook Page: —Stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of
Video Rating: 4 / 5

25 Responses to How To Solve An Engine Overheat Condition – EricTheCarGuy

  • Lordskeep says:

    Hmm it’s only suppose to turn yellow if it detects exhaust. The fluid is chemically made to only change color when there’s chemicals present in the radiator air. Chemicals like carbon monoxide, but I have never used one so made they don’t work. 

  • Corey Regier says:

    I just keep on coming back cause you are so good at explaining everything in your videos. Your bit on rad caps was interesting, I didn’t know they did so much. I’ve seen some Chinese tractors without them, and then the driver adds water into the rad after some evaporates lol.

  • FIubber says:

    also, if you suspect the thermostat is bad try and boilingkokking on the stove! mostly i say MOSTLY if you have something to measure the the water temperature with it should start to move within 65 – 90 degree! you shall see it move significant if you just hold it in boiling water!

  • Richard Hole says:

    also, it will give a false reading on a block test because the hot air will make the shit turn yellow. It can be a pain in the ass. I upsold a head gasket for no reason on a mazda protege the first time a ran into a failed water pump. lol

  • Richard Hole says:

    Dude! a 30 + minute video and you forgot to mention internally failed water pumps! Many cars have piece of shit plastic impellers nowadays that break usually in the center, Im a tech and i’ve seen it on a volkswagon t belt driven waterpump and a jeep 4.0 just the other day. It will have a cold and hot radiator hose like it’s a bad thermostat. The coolant will rise up and down when trying to bleed, then hot air will escape the bucket intermittently. thats the quickest way i can tell.

  • jimbola77 says:

    nice videos eric keep em comin”

  • 94navin says:

    No im not fucking retarded im a mechanic and you can ask your local shoh 3/4 is fine by any means on a hot day with the a/c

  • ssupermann says:

    you are fucking retarded. a vehicle should never get above regular operating temperatures even on a hot day. “regular operating temperatures” are always right at the half way mark (if not slightly below). that way, when it goes above. its hot! below? running cold! (an actual problem) at the 3/4 mark you car is running hot. plain and simple.

  • 94navin says:

    when you have the a/c on in hot weather its normal or it to go 3/4 way as long as it doesn’t get to the red needle

  • 94navin says:

    take out your spark plug and see if its wet with coolant, you should do this when you engine is cool and if you didn’t see anything do it when its hot just be careful and is white smoke coming out of the tail pipe

  • 94navin says:

    if a bad radiator cap did that the coolant level would be low when he opened the cap

  • Ashriel Olimpo says:

    I don’t actually drive but I come here when I’m bored.

  • Ty Crawford says:

    Hey Eric, I’ve got a Mustang with a coolant leak. Evidently, the weld joint between the heater pipe and the flange that mates it to the waterpump has broken. I was wondering if it was possible to replace this piece of pipe with a rubber hose instead. Its a 2000 V6. I’d replace it with OEM, but the dealer wants a fortune for it and that’s the only place I can find it. The only reason I feel the engineers opted for a pipe instead of hose anyway is the bleeding bolt comes off a different section.

  • tallboy200 says:

    I thought it was just overheating

  • tallboy200 says:

    Kids is this school

  • ElLeonidas2009 says:

    Thanks for this great video, one of my cars is having a problem with overheat, I touched the hoses and the upper is hot but the lower is cold, I will replace the thermostat.

  • MrStemkilla says:

    i find myself with none of the problems he fixes… but yet i still watch. great vids

  • Roshen Udugama says:

    It was very helpful, thanks

  • 9kap1s2k says:

    Take a look at the temperature gauge. If it’s about halfway up and staying there, then no. It could just be water or something that made it past your splash guard and up onto some parts that heat up while at operating temperature; assuming it was steam and not smoke of course. If it’s smoke it could be an oil leak that is letting oil get on to some hot exhaust parts and burning off.

  • iimspode says:

    Radiator internal obstructions, and broken water pump impeller are 2 other things id add. but otherwise great video!!

  • luissin420 says:

    Ok i have a question about this. i have a 90 acura integra and i am having an overheating problem. one of the reasons was that my water pump was bad so i switched it out. now my radiator fan wont come on. I plugged it directly to the battery to see if it was burned up but it turned on fine.I checked all my fuses and electrical stuff and everything was in order. My question is if it could be a sensor that is not working and isn’t turning on the fan?

  • MisterModder123 says:

    Hey Eric, do you think that maybe the overfill tank that was ironically overfilled was because of a bad radiator cap, or do you think that maybe the owner just filled it too much?

  • Gregory Schultz says:

    great video thanks

  • lifeinhd says:

    Did you try the pressure tester like Eric suggested in this video? Should make it pretty obvious where fluid squirts out.


    i had mud caked on my radiator on the side in the engine bay cuz i went mudding haha, power washed it off and now its fine!

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