How To Change Your Oil Part 2 – EricTheCarGuy

As you may have guess this is the second part of this subject. Click on the link at the bottom of this to see part 1. If I missed anything or if you need more information just leave a comment or visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com. — Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com ericthecarguy.com Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum www.ericthecarguy.com Visit my Facebook Page: www.facebook.com — Part 1 www.youtube.com Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
Video Rating: 4 / 5

25 Responses to How To Change Your Oil Part 2 – EricTheCarGuy

  • toy96 says:

    supertech, that stuff is garbage, I compared it against the basic chevron oil and quaker state conventional oil is was like water, besides supertech where I live is like 25 cents cheaper for the gallon or 5 quart jug, not even worth it. Hey, if ericthecarguy uses it, it must work!

  • JagmeetSingh Aulakh says:

    awesome
    

  • raczyk says:

    Hey EricTheCarGuy, I have a 2007 Nissan Sentra with 185 000 km on it. Recently I’ve purchased Castrol High Mileage to be used in my car. The owners manual states to chagne oil every 6000 km. My question is can I switch over to fully synthetic oil at this point? Also I’ve read with synthetic you don’t need to change to oil for 12 000 km, basically doubled as it does not break down. Thanks.

  • vyjk says:

    Hey Eric, love your videos.
    In fact I started from the beginning to watch any I’ve missed when I came across this.

    That manual’s engine oil chart has both temperature gradients in Fahrenheit xD One one the bottom should be Celsius.

  • Kurosaki505 says:

    i dont know if youve found the answer to this in a month and im no expert but the thickness of the oil changes when its warm than cold . when its cold its thicker when its warm its thinner thats all i know.

  • Achilles Oden says:

    Do you use fully synthetic?

  • buddyboy4x44 says:

    Is it really normal to change the washer on the drain plug at each oil change? I wonder what percentage of mechanics actually do that. I can see if the washer is obviously worn or damaged in some way. I haven’t checked yet, but I suspect that might even be a special order at my GM dealer. lol

  • gcw89 says:

    Im a tech guy and have no clue about cars but why is it that when i check the oil in my car its full but when its on and warm it looks like it has no oil when i check the oil stick? (i have a 2003 mazdaspeed protege)….i had other cars but i never seen that happen the only difference is that this is my first M/T car so im not sure if that makes a difference?…..

  • toporek599170 says:

    I have a question about the type of oil you put in ( like in this vid. the 5W-30). What if you change something in the engine eg. put in forged pistons or something do you use the same type of oil?

  • toporek599170 says:

    1:36 a Subaru rolls in haha ;p

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    So far it hasn’t been a problem. Thanks for the comment.

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    It also works better on a lift since if you did it that way you wouldn’t have any room to work but I hear where you are coming from.

  • macspud28 says:

    You should never over fill the oil. Hopefully you only put in 5 quarts instead of 4.7 because you knew that the filter takes .3 quarts.

  • macspud28 says:

    Good apart from the opposite side from the drain hole should be jacked higher (as opposed to what’s done here) so that all the oil is drained. Also it helps to fill the new filter before fitting.

  • Avranius says:

    first time ive seen a video with 0 dislikes

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    It’s rated energy conserving SM which was the latest at the time. You don’t think Wal-Mart refines their own oil do you? Sure the ‘name brands’ have additives that help your engine last longer but if you use cheep oil like I do and change it regularly you won’t have any problems, at least I haven’t. Sure if I had spent a bunch of money building an engine I would put the best I could in but in my drivers I save where I can.

  • PQPLAYER92 says:

    Wal-Mart super tech? really lol

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    This was a pretty early video and I may not have been saying it yet. Thanks very much for your comment.

  • domjzer2che says:

    Awe at the end I was waiting for you to say ” and always stay dirty” :) all your videos are great and are so helpful to me.

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    I wouldn’t say ‘flush’ but in the past I have and you can add one quart of trans fluid instead of a quart of oil and run it on an older vehicle like that and it will help clean the inside of the engine.

  • honkytime12 says:

    Eric, I’m working on a 1984 dodge 360. It has fairly low K’s and someone said to do a flush using ATF, It seemed better to do a couple of quick changes with highway k’s (about 700 or so) to clean it up. Thoughts?

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    I reply to as many comments as I can, I was glad I was able to respond to yours. Thanks for your comments.

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    Put 5 in, run the engine and recheck it. If you need more you can add it then but if not your good to go. Just don’t overfill it as that would be almost as bad as having it too low.

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    @AJAcura Nope, just stick with the 5W30 that is recommended on the cap and change it about every 4K or so. I’ve seen engines start to leak at that mileage when using synthetic oils.

  • EricTheCarGuy says:

    via google translator.

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